CHEF HAN’S KITCHEN JOURNAL • Z&Y PEKING DUCK
From the Desk of Chef Li Jun Han
San Francisco’s Chinatown is a symphony of beautiful chaos. If you walk down Stockton Street on a Saturday morning, you are immediately immersed in the energy of the city—the vibrant produce markets, the rhythmic cadence of Cantonese and Mandarin, the scent of five-spice and roasted meats drifting from storefront windows. It is the oldest Chinatown in North America, and it wears its history with pride.
But the true magic of this neighborhood isn’t found in the crowded souvenir shops along Grant Avenue. As a chef who has spent decades dedicated to preserving traditional Chinese culinary arts, I have learned that the best experiences here are the quiet ones—the hidden enclaves where craftsmanship and culture speak louder than the crowds.
When friends and guests visit the Bay Area, I always tell them to look beyond the obvious. Here is my guide to experiencing the authentic, refined soul of San Francisco’s Chinatown.
The Morning Ritual: Portsmouth Square
Begin your day at Portsmouth Square. While tourists often rush past it on their way to major thoroughfares, this park is the undisputed living room of Chinatown. Grab a quiet bench and watch the neighborhood wake up. You will see elders practicing Tai Chi in perfect, silent synchronicity, hear the sharp, rhythmic clack of Mahjong tiles, and feel the steady hum of a community that has gathered in this exact spot for generations. It is a grounding start to any visit.
The Spiritual Anchor: Tin How Temple
If you want to understand the soul of this neighborhood, you must walk down Waverly Place and look for a quiet, unassuming doorway. Climb the steep, narrow wooden stairs to the top floor, and you will emerge into Tin How Temple. Founded in 1852, it is the oldest continuously operating Taoist temple in the United States.
It is a deeply personal space, free from the polished veneer of modern tourist attractions. Suspended glass lanterns float above, and the heavy, grounding scent of coil incense fills the room. The temple is dedicated to Mazu, the Empress of Heaven, who guided the neighborhood’s earliest settlers across the Pacific. I often suggest my guests visit here to simply stand in the quiet reverence and acknowledge the generations of resilience that built this community.
The Living Stage: The Great Star Theater
Just a short walk away on Jackson Street lies a magnificent piece of cultural architecture: The Great Star Theater. Built in the 1920s, it stands as the last remaining theater in Chinatown.
Stepping inside is like stepping back into the golden age of San Francisco. With its ornate detailing and vintage proscenium, it has hosted decades of traditional Chinese opera, acrobatics, and martial arts cinema. Today, it remains an independently run venue dedicated to the performing arts. Even if you are simply admiring the marquee and the architectural facade from the street, it serves as a powerful reminder of the artistic heritage that has always pulsed through these alleyways.
Photo by PacificDepths CC BY-SA 4.0
A Sanctuary of Taste: 606 Jackson Street
By midday, the neighborhood’s kinetic energy will reach its peak. When you are ready to step away from the bustle, I invite you to walk through our doors at Z&Y Peking Duck.
We designed the space to be a minimalist, high-end sanctuary—a deliberate contrast to the streets outside. While our name celebrates the royal roasting techniques of Beijing, a true culinary journey requires exploring the depth of the entire kitchen. When you sit down in our dining room, here are the dishes I personally recommend to experience the breadth of our craft. (See below)
📞 For immediate assistance or specific venue questions, call our Events Director directly at (415) 986-1899
Black Truffle Xiao Long Bao
A marriage of delicate technique and earthy luxury. Our soup dumplings are hand-folded daily with exacting precision. The rich, savory broth inside is elevated with the deep, aromatic profile of black truffle. To eat them is an exercise in patience—wait for the steam to clear, bite the top, and let the broth introduce your palate to the rest of the meal.
Miso Sea Bass
Sourced from Chilean cod caught at a depth of 800 meters, this is a dish defined by its exceptional ingredient quality. The fish is meticulously marinated and miso-grilled until the exterior caramelizes, yielding to a buttery, impossibly tender interior. It is a testament to how minimalism on the plate can deliver maximum flavor.
Honeydew Crispy Shrimp
For a study in texture, this dish balances the crunch of a light, masterfully fried coating with the natural sweetness of fresh shrimp. It is vibrant, technically demanding, and leaves a lingering, elegant finish. I highly recommend pairing it with our Traditional Beijing Sour Plum Soup—hand-boiled for five hours—to beautifully cleanse the palate.
The Art of Intentional Travel
To travel well is to eat and explore intentionally. Chinatown has waited over two centuries to see its cultural and culinary scene evolve into the refined destination it is today. Don’t just walk through history—immerse yourself in it, and then sit down to taste it.
📞 For immediate assistance or specific venue questions, call us directly at (415) 986-1899
