CHEF HAN’S KITCHEN JOURNAL • Z&Y PEKING DUCK
An insider’s guide to San Francisco’s most storied neighborhood — the parking garages locals swear by, the hidden corners most visitors walk right past, and why a whole-roasted Peking duck might just be the best way to mark any milestone this summer.
By Chef Lijun Han, Owner & Head Chef, Z&Y Peking Duck
Every summer, I watch San Francisco come alive in a way that reminds me why I chose this city — and this neighborhood — more than two decades ago. The fog lifts a little earlier. The streets fill a little faster. And the families who walk through our doors on a warm Friday evening have that unmistakable look of people who have come here to celebrate something.
Chinatown is not just where I cook. It is the oldest Chinatown in North America, a neighborhood of layered histories, living traditions, and — I say this without bias — some of the most memorable food in the Bay Area. But I also know that getting here, navigating parking, deciding what to see before dinner: these things can feel complicated if you don’t know where to look.
Consider this your guide. I have written it for the family driving in from the suburbs, for the Bay Area local who hasn’t visited in years, and for anyone planning a summer gathering they want to remember.
01 — ARRIVAL
The Best Parking in San Francisco Chinatown
Let me start with the thing everyone worries about and nobody wants to talk about: parking in San Francisco. It does not have to be the ordeal people expect. The trick is knowing which garages to target and — on busy summer weekends — booking a spot before you leave home.
Below are the three options I recommend most consistently to guests who ask.
Portsmouth Square Garage
733 Kearny St (at Clay) · Elevators open directly onto Kearny St and Chinatown Square. One of the most storied garages in the neighborhood — originally funded by the Chinatown business community in 1962.
BEST LOCATION
St. Mary’s Square Garage
433 Kearny St · Weekend special rate of $6 for 12 hours makes this the most affordable covered parking near Chinatown. A short flat walk to Grant Ave and our restaurants on Sacramento St.
BEST VALUE
622 Washington St. Garage
622 Washington St · Approximately a 3-minute walk to the heart of Chinatown. A reliable backup on busy Saturday evenings when the other two fill early.
3-MIN WALK
One practical note: Summer Saturday evenings — especially during graduation season in May and June — fill all three garages earlier than you might expect. I recommend using SpotHero or ParkMobile to reserve a spot in advance. Ten minutes of planning at home will save you twenty minutes of circling on arrival.
If you prefer public transit, Chinatown is served by MUNI bus lines 1, 8, 12, 30, and 45, as well as the historic Powell-Mason and Powell-Hyde cable cars. BART’s Montgomery Street station is also within easy walking distance — a particularly good option for guests coming from the East Bay or the Peninsula.
02 — EXPLORE
What to See Within Walking Distance
Once you’ve parked, give yourself time before your reservation. Chinatown rewards the unhurried visitor. The neighborhood that most tourists see — Grant Avenue, the souvenir shops, the restaurants with English-language signs in the windows — is only the first layer. Walk a block off the main drag and the character of the place changes entirely.
Here are the stops I point guests toward most often:
Dragon’s Gate, Grant Avenue at Bush Street —
The ceremonial entrance to Chinatown, framed by jade-green ceramic tile roofing and a pair of guardian lions. Built in 1970, it remains one of the most photographed landmarks in the city. Arrive from the south (Union Square side) and let it serve as your introduction to the neighborhood.
Portsmouth Square —
The beating civic heart of Chinatown and, historically, the birthplace of San Francisco itself. In summer, the square fills with activity morning to night — elderly men playing chess, children chasing pigeons, families gathered on the benches. It is ordinary and extraordinary at the same time.
The Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory, Ross Alley —
Tucked into one of Chinatown’s painted alleys, this tiny factory has been hand-folding fortune cookies since 1962. The smell of warm batter and sesame is reason enough to find it. Visitors are welcome to watch and sample.
WWII Pacific War Memorial Hall, 809 Sacramento St —
A hidden gem that even many longtime San Franciscans have never visited. This small history museum tells the story of China’s role in World War II through artifacts, photographs, and documents in both Mandarin and English. Open Wednesday through Sunday, 10 a.m.–4 p.m.
North Beach & Washington Square —
Cross Broadway and you step into the Italian-American neighborhood that has coexisted with Chinatown for over a century. Washington Square Park is one of the city’s great outdoor living rooms in summer. Saints Peter and Paul Church, where Joe DiMaggio took his wedding photos, anchors the north end of the square.
Colorful Painted Alleys —
Waverly Place and Spofford Alley are lined with traditional painted balconies and association buildings that date to the neighborhood’s earliest years. Walk them slowly. These are the arteries of the old city.
“Plan for one to two hours of wandering before your reservation. You will not regret the time.”
— CHEF HAN
03 — AT THE TABLE
The Best Summer Dishes to Enjoy in Chinatown
Sichuan cuisine and summer are, in my view, a natural pairing that many people do not expect. The brightness of fresh ginger and scallion, the clean tingle of Sichuan peppercorn, the way chili oil opens on a warm palate — these flavors are alive in a way that heavier winter cooking is not.
At Z&Y Restaurant on Sacramento Street, our summer menu leans into that brightness. Here are the dishes I suggest guests build their table around during the warmer months:
Peking Duck — The Centerpiece
Our signature whole-roasted Beijing-style duck, lacquered and slow-roasted until the skin pulls thin and crackling. Served tableside with house-made pancakes, shredded scallion, cucumber, and hoisin. Built for sharing, and for celebrating.
Sliced Beef & Ox Tongue in Chili Sauce
A classic known as Fuqi Feipian. Do not let the vibrant ruby-red chili oil intimidate you; this dish is a lesson in complex savory balance, not just heat. The thinly shaved, deeply braised meats are served cold, creating a beautiful contrast against the aromatic warmth of roasted sesame, crushed peanuts, and our house-crafted chili oil. It is robust, yet incredibly refreshing.
Cold Sesame Noodles
Silky wheat noodles dressed in toasted sesame paste, house chili oil, and a touch of black vinegar. Bright, cool, and satisfying — one of summer’s most honest pleasures at the table.
Wok-Seared Seafood with Ginger & Scallion
Fresh seasonal seafood from the market, hit with high flame, white pepper, and a final shower of young ginger and green scallion. Clean and vivid. A dish that tastes like the season.
Chilled Cucumber Salad
Smashed cucumbers dressed with house chili oil, Sichuan peppercorn, garlic, and sesame. A perfect opener for a long summer table — it wakes the palate and sets the tone for everything that follows.
At Z&Y Peking Duck, the duck is the organizing principle of the entire menu — but there is a full supporting cast of roasted and braised preparations, hand-pulled noodles, and wok dishes built to share. We recommend tables of four or more to order the full duck service and let the meal build from there.
04 — THE OCCASION
Why Peking Duck Is Perfect for Summer Celebrations
In Chinese culinary tradition, the whole roasted duck has always carried ceremony — at wedding banquets, New Year tables, milestone gatherings. A Peking duck cannot be eaten alone. It requires unhurried assembly: each guest rolling their own pancakes, passing the plate back across the table. That shared ritual is why I believe it belongs at the center of any summer celebration that matters.
For a graduation dinner, a milestone birthday, a family reunion where three generations are finally in the same city — there is no more fitting centerpiece than a duck carved at the table while everyone is still talking
— CHEF HAN
We are well-suited to any of it: graduation dinners, family reunions, multigenerational tables, and private company events. Our semi-private and buyout arrangements at Z&Y Peking Duck accommodate groups that want the full duck experience with a degree of separation from the main dining room. Please contact us directly for group bookings — we will make it work.
05 — THE DESTINATION
Why Z&Y Peking Duck Belongs on Your Summer List
We source our ducks from specific regional suppliers and follow a preparation that cannot be rushed — brine, dry, and roast, over the better part of two days. What arrives at your table is a gleaming bird, skin the color of dark amber, carved tableside. The room on Sacramento Street is intimate enough for a private occasion and lively enough to feel like the city at its best. Our wine list leans California: a Sonoma Coast Chardonnay or Willamette Valley Pinot Noir holds its own against properly roasted duck skin.
San Francisco has always demanded that its restaurants earn their place. We have spent two decades trying to do exactly that — one duck at a time.
— CHEF HAN
Reservations are encouraged at least one week in advance for Friday and Saturday dinner. We look forward to raising a glass with you this summer.
With warmth and gratitude,
Chef Lijun Han
Z&Y Peking Duck
Reserve Your Table This Summer
Both Z&Y Restaurant and Z&Y Peking Duck are taking reservations for summer dining, graduation dinners, and private celebrations. We look forward to welcoming you at any of our restaurants.
📞 Z&Y Peking Duck: (415) 986-1899
